A brewery sample across Nebraska and Kansas

A 1,300-mile loop tour through Kansas and Nebraska required some skill to ensure I ended each day in a town where I could have a craft beer. I had three nights and four days. In that time, I wanted to hit some towns less traveled, hopefully places with a eye toward craft beer. 

By starting in Nebraska, the route did not unfold easily. Breweries in Scottsbluff, Axtell and McCook were all closed on Monday. By virtue of Monday hours at Lost Way Brewery – one of the best brewery names of recent vnitage - I landed in Holdrege. On Third Avenue in Holdrege, Lost Way’s taproom was quiet on a Monday night, and the affable bar manager put up with my questions about the brewery and the town. They had some tasty Irish style ales (dry stout and red ale), both proving highly sessionable. 

Lost Way boasted some unique offerings, including a rauchbier (lager with smoked malt) that displayed additional character through an infusion of Hatch chile peppers. The peppery notes emerge from the smoke and are assertive but don’t overwhelm the taste buds. Lost Way also produces Big Creek Double IPA, a piney, sticky specimen with a Pacific Northwest feel. 

Had I not arrived in Lincoln at 9 a.m. as part of an ambitious driving schedule, I might have stayed in Lincoln, which can boast a dozen breweries, including some of Nebraska’s oldest. 

I take a closer look at the brewing prowess of the next state capital on my itinerary. Topeka, Kansas has a surprising array of breweries for a town of 100,000-plus – Iron Rail, Blind Tiger, Norsemen and Barrister’s, among others. But there was only time for one, and that could only be Happy Bassett Brewing. The mascot alone had me hunting for its Wanamaker taproom. The brewery also operates a barrel house in another part of Topeka.

With the strip-mall façade receiving a facelift, the actual taproom was hard to spot. But I found it, and found a friendly place. The bartender poured me sample after sample before I could even order a flight. I went with Cattle Dog, an IPA brewed with season yeast, giving it a bone-dry character that greatly appealed to me. For later consumption, I grabbed a crawler of their fine porter. The man next to me had a Cattle Dog as well, and we struck up a good conversation about Topeka, beer and life. I bought his beer when I realized how long it had been since I struck up a casual conversation with anyone. 

Between Topeka and Wichita, I planned a night in Emporia, a Flint Hills college town, with dinner at Radius Brewing, a brewpub on the main drag near Emporia State University. This was not just a college hangout – people of all ages filled the restaurant. With only time for one beer, I went with Sunsup, a traditional saison made with Belgian years and German Grungeist hops, a nice earthy combination for a farm-state saison.

Radius deserves kudos for its beer William Allen Wheat, which honors William Allen White, longtime editor of the Emporia Gazette and noted progressive voice for Middle America. Even at 7 percent, Sunsup never felt too big for regular drinking. Try it with the lasagna pizza because that dish is as good as it sounds. 

Last call came in Garden City, the last city of any size in southwest Kansas. Dodge City has a craft brewery, but I booked a place in Garden City and the tourist-heavy nature of Dodge City left me a little cold.

Flat Mountain Brewhouse occupied an old storefront on Main Street. Due to a lapse between brewers, they mostly had guest taps, although they had a few fine session beers. The Lionshead Pilsner was slightly sweet but easy drinking. Also of note was the Mango Wheat, which had nice notes of tropical fruit on a light wheat base. Their kitchen aced the chicken-fried steak, a necessity on vacation in cattle country. Flat Mountain illustrated the problem of small-town breweries, how they often walk precarious paths between success and just holding on. 

Craft brew proliferation delivered me a good problem. Even in 1,300 miles, I could only cover so many breweries and safely imbibe. I can plot another Kansas-Nebraska swing through a fresh loop of small towns and not repeat a single brewery – not that I would mind hitting any of them again. 

The brewery on Main Street in Garden City