A most unexpected winery

In my few short months at a new wine retailer in Nashville, I have come to enjoy the way work camaraderie extends to off-time. The managers have organized several off-site events for employees not on the clock, and that is far beyond what most stores do.

Already this spring we have toured Jackelope Brewing Company's new facility. For April, the excursion brought us to East Nashville, to a tiny strip center where some of the more interesting wines in the state are being produced.

Nashville Urban Winery had a perfect setup for a rainy day - a huge covered patio and seating for dozens more around its comfortable bar. The walls were covered with art that adorns their wine bottles and cans.

Along with a brunch cocktail - mimosas with their house-made  Prosecco for me - the visit included a short behind-the-scenes tour.

As we descended into the wine cellar, I felt a rush of cold air and the smell of earth I had known since my earliest memories. My grandfather had a tiny wine cellar separated from the basement by a wood door, and that odor of must and soil hit me immediately. I have only detected it one other time, back in my Ohio days. I interviewed an Upper Arlington man, a retired physician, who had dug an especially deep basement so he could cellar his own wine.

Underneath Nashville, the earthy smells and cold air of the cellar immediately woke me up. The temperature was a lean 51 degrees, and wines aged quietly all around us.

Our guide poured samples of their full lineup. After walking past the wines on the shelf at Vintage, I never pieced together that they were local. I never associated the Anonymous label with Nashville before. 

Both the Sauvignon blanc and chardonnay were from Chile and far earthier than either of those grapes typically present themselves. The SB has the same fruit notes the grape produces, but they were more subtle and less forward that New Zealand SBs; combined with the earthy and nutty tones, it worked.

Their Prosecco works well in a mimosa and stands firmly on its own. The rose ran a little too sweet for my tastes. I prefer roses that start bone-dry and go drier from there.

The reds were an intriguing bunch. Born of a joke, The Best Red Blend Ever! was a light but compelling blend of 80 percent Tempranillo with pinot noir and Cabernet Sauvignon filling out the rest. The two cabs we tasted both had their merits.

NUW helps itself by pricing the wines appropriately. Almost all were $15 or less, a good price point to catch both locals and the legions of tourists. The U.S. has favorable exchange rates with Chile and Argentina, so there is potential for good value.

After the tour and tasting, the gathering was relocated to an eatery down the street. Outside the rain had stopped, and the skies brightened, along with my thoughts on urban winemaking.