Little Mesilla goes a long way

Marriage proposal on Mesilla Plaza

Escaping the urban clutches of El Paso did not prove simple– the interstate was closed all weekend on the west side, forming a major traffic snarl in both directions. Just getting to New Mexico took some maneuvering and numerous detours. But soon the Organ Mountains came into view, and Las Cruces loomed close. 

I like El Paso, but on this trip the smaller towns were the focus, the places I had not seen before. We escaped and found refuge in Las Cruces' little, quainter sibling, the village of Mesilla. 

We had a fine dinner at the Lescombes Winery, which has satellite restaurants around New Mexico, but grows its grapes in southern New Mexico around Mesilla. The region is also a major producer of pecans. The groves are majestic even in winter. 

Spanish for “little table,” Mesilla has a quirky history. Founded in 1848 by Mexicans fleeing the U.S. takeover of the northern half of Mexican territory after the Mexican-American War, Mesilla ended up on the U.S. side of the border following the Gadsden Purchase, the last major land acquisition in the Lower 48. 

A decade later Mesilla briefly served as capital of the Arizona Territory of the Confederacy. Mesilla thrived for another 20 years, as it sat on the Butterfield Stage and the Camino Real, the Mexican road that followed the Rio Grande before ending at Santa Fe.  Then the railroad bypassed Mesilla for Las Cruces in 1881. 

At the time, this seemed a fatal move for Mesilla. But to see it now, it might have been a blessing, as Mesilla Plaza is historic and ringed by 19th century adobe buildings, plus San Albino Church with its white-topped bell towers. 

In the 20th century, Mesilla’s revival was spearheaded by growth of its wine industry and new development that left the historic plaza alone. It hasn’t grown since the railroad picked Las Cruces, but therein lies the charm. 

This is an old city of the West, one that had lawless cantinas and has endured. Mesilla saw visits from outlaw Billy the Kid – he was tried for murder here - and Mexican revolutionary Pancho Villa. 

The nods to tourism were obvious, with boutiques selling turquoise and other locally produced wares. The clerk at one of the few open stores complained of the cold. It was in the mid-40s, balmy for January in Colorado; this close to the Mexican border, not so much. 

I didn't take many pictures. I didn't want to. Mesilla had an atmosphere I needed to soak in and I couldn't get that behind the lens. 

Even in a tiny town, Mesilla Plaza was a hive of activity this Saturday night. On the gazebo at its center, a marriage proposal unfolded. People greeted us as we walked by. On this night, Mesilla did not want anyone to remain a stranger.