Even in the rain, I found myself cruising up and down South Broadway. I had an hour to burn before I met some friends for a movie in Denver's Mayan Theatre. If I try to arrive on time for an event in Denver, I'll end up in catastrophic gridlock. If I leave early, I will have a smooth drive, and have plenty of time for exploration. Get me to Broadway, and I could uncover a boutique, a toy store or a cafe I had not visited yet.
This drizzling Sunday demanded a brewery. A single pour or a quick flight would suffice. Denver had dozens of breweries about which I knew nothing so it seemed the perfect afternoon to pick one at random.
Through the pouring rain I spotted a sign in a little strip pf businesses in the South Broadway neighborhood. Dos Luces Brewing - that would work. I knew nothing about what I would find inside.
Dos Luces might be the most unusual brewery in Denver. They produce two types of pre-Columbian beer: corn-based Chicha, and Pulque, a brew made from corn and maguey. I had not expect those choices when I stepped out of the rain.
Ordering took a minute since I could not simply roll with a favorite style. Overwhelmed by the choices and new slate of beers, I went for the Pulque de Jamaica, which was heavy on hibiscus. I have no problem with that, as too many beers tout their hibiscus and don't deliver beyond a faint note or two. This brew possessed an assertive hibiscus drove the entire beer.
Despite being new to the pre-Columbian styles, I found many similarities to European styles. Pulque de Jamaica tasted much like the sour beer styles that have been popularized in the past decade.
Dos Luces had a number of bottle specimens but the lone can option intrigued me the most. I couldn't leave without a can of Purple Mountain Majesty, a collaboration saison made with purple corn.
Made in collaboration with Golden City Brewery, the saison was a summer afternoon triumph. By its ingredients, barley, purple corn, hibiscus and a Belgian yeast strain. It's not a fruit bomb, but demonstrates an impressive range of fruit notes, with the hibiscus throwing off strawberry and raspberry, while orange and banana makes appearances. Despite all the fruit notes, Purple Mountain Majesty is a rather dry beer, and one well befitting the saison name.
Having only sampled two of Dos Luces' brews, I expect the brewery choice on my next South Broadway excursion might be far less random.


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