Before I Get to that Foul Evening...

Last weekend's roadtrip cannot begin without a few words about a Western Ohio institution. More specifically, a Lima institution.

On our way to Detroit (names have been changed to protect the guilty), we pulled up to the Kewpee. The boxy restaurant, with its slightly creepy doll logo, gave away little. The line of cars circling the build spoke volumes.

As the only non-Lima native, I was curious to taste this cult burger. Many people feel the same way about In N Out, which comes off as a fresher Rally's - in other words, nothing special until you order a shake.

Named for the old-timey doll, Kewpee was the forerunner of McDonald's and every other burger joint save White Castle (or A&W, depending on who writes the history). Its business cratered in the Great Depression, leaving just five locations today - three in Lima, and one apiece in Racine, Wisc. and Lansing, Mich. Burgers, pie and chili propel its reputation.

Kewpee's quality likely lies with staying small and local. Kewpee operates older stores in Lima - its downtown location earned a spot on the National Register of Historic Place. But the inside felt like a timewarp. The staff wore pristine white uniforms that would have felt proper in the 1950s. With just two lines, they hustled dozens of customers through in minutes. My friend tells me the staff tended to be older because Kewpee is among the few fast-food chains to pay employees well.

The meat all comes from local beef, which the restaurants grind up every day. I rarely eat fast food anymore, but rarely does a quick burger taste fresh and flavorful.

Anything you might say about a Big Kahuna Burger would apply to the Kewpee. I never expected fast-food beef so sturdy and juicy.

Normally I wouldn't even consider a fast-food burger, but at Kewpee, you really can't consider anything else. Considering I never traveled to Lima before, I can't foresee another Kewpee excursion. Fortunately, I cannot forget the flavor.